Southern designer 'keeps it Kiwi' despite recession

Up-and-coming Southland designer Emily Kerse is stepping out for the first time at Air New Zealand Fashion Week after not only navigating the economic slump, but having stayed true to her key value that all her garments proudly bare the “100 percent Kiwi designed and made” label.

Kerse, 25, who launched her self-titled brand three years ago, says, “Launching a fashion brand tests our creative souls – it’s business plans … it’s marketing … it’s media relations … it’s building relationships … it’s financial gymnastics – oh, and there’s design to fit in, too.

From the outset, Kerse, who stocks boutiques throughout New Zealand was determined that her vintage-inspired line be New Zealand made, both for ethical reasons and quality control.

“My values have been an important driver, and they’re my guiding light in every business decision I make. I could have had my garments made offshore with cheap labour, but I resolved at day one that if ever things got that tight, I’d rather shut up shop.

“My collections are designed for the discerning buyer, those who appreciate quality from design to fabrics used through to the finishing – is an absolute non-negotiable, and I can’t imagine ensuring that by remote.

“I like to think the Emily Kerse brand is testament to the fact we can craft beautiful, quality clothing right here at home and support our local industry, while still keeping the price tag reasonable.”

To that end, New Zealand merino strikes a chord, both with Kerse and her clientele.

“Of course, New Zealand merino wool is something I love to bring into my collections, and it’s always so popular – from the pure merino dresses, cardigans and tops through to the new 'Emily's Essentials' range.”

Not surprisingly, there is an inherent synergy between Kerse’s business ethos and her Winter 2010  'Letters from Isla May' collection she is showing at fashion week: values.

Like her previous collections, Letters from Isla May continues Kerse’s trademark design – garments created from hand-picked, luxury fabrics, seamlessly blending the elegance of yesteryear with a fresh, modern twist.

“My inspiration for this collection was the treasures and memoirs of Isla May’s letters, a poetic record of yesterday’s secrets, skills and values that would otherwise be lost …

“I see this collection as an unashamed celebration of femininity, nostalgia, gently underscored by a versatility and practicality to complement the busy lifestyle of today’s modern woman and compliment the pragmatism, ideals and traditions of women from bygone eras.”

In conceptualising the collection, Kerse, mindful of the economic times, put a premium on producing pieces that can be worn different ways to achieve completely new looks. Each is designed to be as comfortable as it is eye-catching, and as unique as it is wearable.

Kerse says tougher times may mean tighter marketing budgets, but her focus has been on tackling a few projects very well, including overseeing the development of the label’s website. www.emilykerse.co.nz instantly proved its worth shortly after its launch, bringing immediate inquiries from the American fashion industry, intrigued by the line’s Antipodean appeal.

“As a result, one of my signature dresses was worn to New York Fashion Week recently by a fashion marketer and, by all accounts, it was a hit – so sitting in Invercargill racing to get everything in order for New Zealand Fashion Week, that was really timely and encouraging feedback.”

Together with catching headlines in fashion publications and online, Kerse’s designs have also adorned television presenters.

Kerse will be exhibiting her 2010 winter collection at Fashion Week and has accepted an invitation to be part of the Designer selection Catwalk show.